Provocation

Smoked banana leaves, turmeric-slicked sea creatures; charred skewers in plastic bags spiked with sharp and aromatic sauces.

After a research trip to Northern Thailand, we recreated the rolling carts of Santitham Market for Franklin Chthonics in upstate New York.

Process

Sour, bitter and funky, The cuisine of northern Thailand differs greatly from the typical Thai food found in the United States. American Thai closely resembles central Thai food, which is much sweeter compared to the more herbaceous, punchy flavors of the northern cuisine. We recalled sauces and marinated pig ears, stuffed squids and the pounded paste of cilantro roots.

To bring diners fully into the meal, we built thaan rambutan fruit wood grills and served up skewers raw for them to cook themselves over open fires.